Bootleggers Bar and Grill

If you prefer a chat-fuelled chow down to a formal meal, beeline for Bootleggers in Hopeman with its lush hanging baskets, wood panelling and wave mosaics. The epic views over the Moray Firth alone are worth the slight swing off the A96.

Owner Ruth thinks that food should be fun, admired and shared. Her approach is more 'family feast' than formal, and live music often accompanies the eating. Your wood-smoked food will land in the middle of the table ready to share. Think Shetland mussels and grass-fed beef steak, or sweet and smoky chicken with a local heritage tomato salad followed by lime cheesecake. The in-house Salty Dog Gin is distilled up the road in Forres.

Much of the fish is landed in Burghead - stroll the coast trail in search of caves, sea stacks, sandy beaches and Moray's famed dolphins or watch the lobster folk hauling their creels in the bay. Book ahead in winter as tables inside are in demand. Dogs are welcome outside and in the bar area.