J & J Graham

Penrith stands on a route to Scotland that’s been strategically important since Roman times and its historic standing shows in the hodge-podge of cobbled lanes, castle ruins, arcades and red stone buildings arranged around a lively square. In the heart stands J & J Graham, an old-fashioned grocers with traditional signage and ornate shop windows still intact.

Established in 1793, these days it’s more an artisan deli and perfect for picnics and holiday hampers. The shop is dominated by an enormous counter, a treasure chest of Cumbrian delicacies, and ringed with shelves of groceries. Resist, if you can, the local gingerbread, chutneys, sticky toffee puddings, own-blend teas and chilli sauces, all sourced from the Eden Valley. An in-house bakery provides daily bread, scones, pies, quiches, soup and freshly cooked ham.

If you’re here in October, look out for the Winter Droving, an annual festival with a torch-lit procession and rural games.